To celebrate Rag and Magpie will be restocking some of Emma Brigitte London’s one-of-a-kind handmade dresses for a limited time and for a special price of £80.00. There are only six in the range so you’ll never find anyone else wearing the same dress. The collection includes a Black & White Striped Retro Halter Dress, a Cream Floral PeekaBoo Pencil Dress and a Red Polka-Dot PeekaBoo Dress.

To view all pieces by Emma Brigitte London visit www.ragandmagpie.co.uk/emma-brigitte-london

Update: The show is now viewable for a limited time BBC via IPlayer

Whilst declining pelts and skin handbags offered to the store I found myself entering into a conversation about the fur debate. As Rag and Magpie has a no fur policy I decline every time. However, I have heard and read many people say ‘it’s OK if it’s vintage fur isn’t it?’. Resisting the urge to go off on a tangent about animal rights here are my summarized thoughts and research…

Fur is generally believed to be one of the earliest materials used to create clothing by indigenous people across the world. In this instance I think it’s justified to hunt, skin and use all parts of the animal yourself so as to not waste any; the whole creature is used for meat, tools from bone, fur for warmth and so on. This is the reasoning behind our selling of items which contain byproducts of the meat industry; leather shoes and belts, sheepskin coats and such. If  you did in fact hunt the furs you own then fair enough, better that the skin is used than discarded. However, this is not how things are done in most of the fur trading world.  The average New Yorker or West Londoner does not hunt down and make her own mink coat. The introduction of the words fur ‘production’ and ‘manufacture” make the wearing and trading of fur very different from Its origins and independent hunting for one’s own use (and in my opinion the practice is inexcusable). Animal protection laws were introduced as far back as 1635 and since the use of fur in fashion has spurred anti-fur campaigns and protests from organisations such as PETA and IFAW since the 1980s. True that furs were worn for warmth and glamour in a less compassionate age when the public were less aware of ecological and animal rights issues, but seriously, haven’t we all grown up now?

‘But it’s vintage, the animal died years ago’

Yes, I’ve heard this a lot. True that the animal or many animals killed to make that coat you love in you local vintage store died many years ago but is simply wearing a fur, even a vintage one, delivering a ‘It’s pretty and it’s old so it doesn’t matter” message to the fashion industry? If so this implies that further use of real skins in fashion is a fruitful venture for the future.

You might consider that wearing an inherited or bought vintage fur coat is better ethically than letting it sit hidden in the back of the wardrobe like a bad secret but environmental broadcaster, author and journalist Lucy Siegle states (Dailymail.co.uk 18 February 2008) “If you wear fur as a fashion item – even if it’s vintage – there is an argument to say that to some extent you are perpetuating a taste for wearing real fur.”  While strutting out in your vintage garb you may inspire others to make a an ill-informed decision to buy new furs. Oh no!

Faux fur in vintage fashion.

So if not fur, what shall I wear to keep warm and look fabulous? you might ask. As someone who is allergic to wool I know how difficult it can be to find attractive and warm vintage outerwear. Why not instead embrace faux furs? Initially introduced in 1929 (although crude at this time), high quality imitation furs have been readily available since the 1950s with the added benefit of being more affordable that their real counterparts.

Arguably slightly less warming faux furs developed using chemically manufactured polymers have many non-ethical advantages over the natural fur. They are lighter in weight, resistant to various environment factors such as heat, smoke and sunlight, are low in absorbency thus quick drying and their maintenance much less fussy. In addition they are not prone to the bugs and insects that real furs might harbour.

Take this 1950s Grey Furleen Faux Fur Stole by Astraka for example (left). Astraka were 1950s producers of a great example of Nylon imitation fur with their own top-of-the-range line of ‘Furleen’ and ‘Minkaleen’ products.  A little vintage hunting effort and you could track down an equally beautiful faux fur coat or stole from times gone by.

That means you can stick to your vintage preferences and gratify your conscience all at once, although there is some debate about whether real or faux fur is less harmful to the environment. But more people wearing good quality faux furs may encourage ethical developments in the manufacture of synthetic alternatives and discourage further the use of real furs.

Granted that as a vegetarian I may be slightly biased but in conclusion my thoughts are; don’t be half-arsed, if you’re anti-fur avoid ALL fur and go faux.

Have your say

Has this article changed your opinion? Do you disagree? Do you agree and have even more to say? I’d love to know you thoughts, please share them by answering our poll or by leaving a comment.

Further reading

• www.furisdead.org.uk
• “Should I choose fake fur over real fur”
• www.dailymail.co.uk
• www.vintageseekers.com – The Fur Debate

Whilst contemplating the lovely vintage labels which sit inside the items I was listing this yesterday I came across this amazing Flickr gallery celebrating the beauty of vintage clothing labels.  Flicker gallery by JoulesVintage found via Coletterie. Vintage clothing labels can be so ornate, so colourful and an admirable clue to the era of the item. I feel inspired and might start my own little album.

The original labels in the panty girdle are very indicative of a specific time period due the use of the NRA (National Recovery Act) Blue Eagle label which was in use in the U.S.A only between 1933 and 1935 (thanks to Vintage Fashion Guild for that tip). Another of the four labels informs that the girdle is made of Lastex ‘The Miracle Yarn’, a revolutionary elastic yarn with a core of elastic rubber wound with rayon, nylon, silk, or cotton threads which could be knitted into a fabric to create firm garments in any shape which lacked rubber and boning. This also meant that underwear could be pulled on rather than hooked, zipped or laced by a maid, thus moving a step toward the later step-in girdles and panty girdles of more modern times and independent dressing.

I also found some 1930s advertisements for the girdle.

Flash is the latest Bien Jolie in corsetry design. Made is ‘Lastex’ and weighs next to nothing…can be scrubbed, scoured or boiled without losing shape or resiliency.  -  says Flash advertisement by Whitehouse, Spokane Daily Chronicle - May 17, 1932.

Let these be the restraining influences in your young life. Just enough control to mold your figure into the right curves. Light but firm two-way stretch lastex that’s washable! – As stated in a Smartwear Advertisment by Emma Lange Inc, The Milwaukee Journal - Sep 15, 1939.

Back in the day this would have cost a mere $3.50, of course in today’s money that would have be equivalent to approximately $60 and back then spending power was lower so this would have been a real treat.

This exquisite 1930s panty girdle is available to buy in our store.

Petticoats

A petticoat (also known as an  underskirt) hangs from the waist and is specifically designed to be worn under a skirt or a dress for warmth or to give the skirt or dress a desired silhouette.

From circa 1940s the term ‘crinoline’ also came to refer to any petticoat or skirt undergarment that created fullness, such as those full multi-layered nylon tulle and taffeta, or gathered and flounced nylon petticoats of the 1950s.

C.1950s Calf Length Black Flared Petticoat

Slips and half slips

A slip is a close fitting woman’s undergarment which hangs from the shoulders, usually with narrow straps to the fashionable hem length and are typically worn over more intimate lingerie. Although similar, a half slip hangs from the waist and may also be called a waist slip.

A slip is worn under a dress or skirt to help it hang smoothly, for warmth, to protect the skin from coarse fabrics such as wool or to protect clothing from perspiration and body oils. Slips are also worn for modesty under sheer clothing.

Slips are usually made of a smooth and slippery fabric such as silk, satin, polyester, tricot or nylon and are usually decorated with lace at the edges and hem. A half slip may be worn with a matching camisole as an alternative to a full slip.

1960s Bri-Nylon Lace Trim White Slip

A chemise

Classically the term chemise (or shift) refers to a simple smock-like garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat and body oils. In modern usage, a chemise is a woman’s undergarment that resembles a loose-fitting sleeveless shirt or dress but is usually more delicate and worn under outer clothing. Not to be confused with a Babydoll (a child-like short, sometimes sleeveless, loose fitting nightgown or negligee).

White Brodery Anglaise Chemise (coming soon)

Agent Provocateur nylon pantyhose, $55
Eurobella 1970s-80s NAVY Vintage Stockings, £4.50
1950s Stockleigh Super Fine Nude Seamed Nylons, £9.50
Elbeo 1970s MULBERRY Vintage Stockings M, £4.50
1939 Silk Hosiery Stockings Vintage Print Ad
Vintage Ballerina Ladder-Stop TOPIC Seamed Stockings
Elbeo NATURELLE Vintage Stockings L

What is polyvore?

Bits of the set: 1950s Fashion Books and Homeware

As it was only my second interaction with a motion camera, as soon as the red light went on I felt like I turned into a mumbling fool completely unable to control facial expression and didn’t quite get everything out that I wanted to say but I’m sure the crew will make I wonderful job editing that bit so I look vaguely normal. I was interviewed about Rag and Magpie, why the store was opened, what our bestsellers are, who our customers are, a little about why vintage is so interesting to me and possibly others and then they took some film of some of the forthcoming stock and items from around my home and be buzzing about the place doing work things. I can’t wait to see the final edit! I’ll share it with you all but until then here’s some snaps of the set (in my living room)…

Bits of the set: 1950s Fashion Books and Homeware

Bits of the set: 1950s Lingerie, longline bras, suspender panties and pettycoats

Bits of the set: 1950s Hats, Nylons and Cake Tin

Bits of the set: 1950s Dresses and Coats

1940s Style Circular Hat With Burgundy Roses

If you’re a fan of our shop and specifically our accessories department you might be wondering “where have all the beautiful vintage style hats by Rosielee Clothing gone?” Fear not, we have still got them in store but the independent label who makes them has separated their clothing line from their hats range and re-branded in order to expand. The 1950s style clothing is still under the Rosielee clothing label but the wonderful 1940s style hats range is now available under the label Rose Patricia Millinery, as such they can now all be found on the Rag and Magpie store at www.ragandmagpie.co.uk/rose-patricia-millinery.

1940s style floral dress – Topshop (past season).
Yellow tights – H&M.
Brown buckle shoes – New Look.
Yellow cardigan – Primark